Craftsman Drive Gear change Instructions

Best Teeth - Craftsman Drive Gear change Instructions

Good morning. Now, I found out about Best Teeth - Craftsman Drive Gear change Instructions. Which is very helpful to me and you. Craftsman Drive Gear change Instructions

So you have a worn out drive gear in your opener and are contemplating on doing it yourself? No sweat. Effect these easy instructions and it shouldn't take no more than an afternoon for the mean jo.

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The tools required to faultless this project are as follows:

Either a Cordless Impact or good old fashion ratchet wrench.

1/4 inch socket
5/16 inch socket
1-2 inch prolongation
5/32 inch punch
1/2 inch open end wrench
1 pair of vice grips or c-clamp or equivalent
Step Ladder and a Hammer

*Note* All of the above tools may or may not be important depending on either you're replacing just the drive gear or whole gear and sprocket assembly. It's a good idea to have them all on hand to be safe. My instructions below vary slightly from the industry instructions. My instructions are for the do it yourselfers and are roughly verbatim on how I turn every gear or gear and sprocket assembly. I have included some extra steps to make it a bit easier for the mean jo. I give a lifetime warranty on my labor, so I am definite that following these instructions properly will not fail you because performing this job as stated hasn't failed me. However, if you have any doubts please refer to the industry guide lines or have a professional in your area accomplish the task.

*When I refer to the Right and Left Side it is always done as if I am standing in the carport facing the door.*

First lets frame out if you need to replace just the drive gear or entire gear and sprocket assembly. Unplug the opener or disconnect its power source at the fuse panel if it is hardwired. Ensure the power is disconnected by trying to control it via your wireless remote and or wall button. Next we'll take off the cover of the opener.

If you're standing underneath the opener facing the carport door, on the left and right sides of the opener, use the 1/4 inch socket to take off 2 screws on each side. Next, using the 1/4 inch socket take off the screws on the front and the back of the opener securing the plastic covers at the bottom. Depending on what model you have you will have either one or two screws. If you have only 1 screw you may need to apply a screw driver to take off the screw.

Once you have the cover off observe the drive gear. A worn drive gear will have white shavings obvious when you take off the cover. You will need to observe to make sure the bushing aren't worn as well. Commonly on the top of the drive gear you will find ground up metal. You may also see ground up metal on top of the opener where the chain or belt is attached to the sprocket. In some instances the sprocket may have broke off and the chain or belt is completely off. Other sign you may need to replace the whole gear and sprocket assembly is excess slack in the chain or belt without explanation. (I.E. It was never that loose before).

Now we know either we need a drive gear or whole gear and sprocket assembly. So now we need to order the part or verify we have the spoton part. The following part estimate is for chain drive gear and sprocket assembly's only and should be part# 41C4220A. Just the drive gear kit should be part# 41A2817 and will work with both chain and belt driven openers. There are two belt drive gear and sprocket assembly's. Please contact your invent with your opener model estimate to procure the spoton one. Otherwise accomplish a easy Google hunt on the listed part numbers to find the best price.

A common question is.....Why not just buy the plastic gear without the kit? I recommend the kit because you will also receive the grease to lubricate the gear as well as a bushing that I always replace in the motor housing mount. You will also receive the industry change instructions should you want to Effect them instead of the one's outlined.

Ok, now the fun begins!

#1 Start by vice gripping or clamping the rail in the front or rear of the trolley making sure you're touching the trolley. You can also use a colored crayon or any other means of making a mark. The trolley is the piece that slides back and forth on your opener rail. You will see that the chain or belt attaches to the trolley on the left side in two places. You may have a cable related to the front side (door side) and a chain related on the back side (opener side) depending on make and model. Doing this will give you a reference point to reset the trolley in case it moves. This will ensure you will not throw the limits (how far up and down the opener moves the door) way off when reconnecting it.

*Note* If you're replacing the Gear and Sprocket assembly, take off the chain or belt at this point. You do so by losing up the nut(s) on the trolley until you can pull the chain or belt off the sprocket.

#2 take off the triton shaped keeper on the bottom of the shaft, underneath the smallest gear on the shaft, then take off the small gear.

#3 take off the limit assembly. You do so by slowly squeezing the front of it together nearest the point where you just removed the small gear and slowly pull down. (I.E. The side that has the gear that meshes with the small gear you just removed)

*Note* If your only replacing the gear Effect this next step otherwise skip to step #5.

#4 Using the 5/32 punch, take off the lower roll pin from the shaft. You may need to grab hold of the gear and move it manually to get it into a good position to drive the roll pin out. Some roll pins are stubborn. Don't be afraid to give it a good smack with a hammer. You might want to use a pair of vice grips to hold the punch as I do sometimes. Once the roll pin is removed, save it.

#5 take off the 4 pin wire connector next to the big black circle on the back of the motor shaft (Rpm Sensor). Using your 5/16 socket with your ratchet or impact take off the 4 bolts retention the motor up. This is wear the prolongation will come in handy. Once the motor is free, slide the housing off the shaft. You can let it hank in the air by the wires. It won't hurt anything.

*Note* If your only replacing the gear continue on to step #6. If you're replacing the whole gear and sprocket assembly go to step #6(a).

#6 take off the plastic gear by sliding it down the shaft. Some might need a diminutive smack with a hammer to remove.

#6(a) take off the 3 bolts retention the gear in place with your 5/16 inch socket. take off the gear and sprocket through the top of the opener. Place the new gear and sprocket in the opener. Line up the three holes at the top and insert bolts. You'll consideration the bolt holes are not threaded. When you setup the bolts they will thread themselves.

#7 Use the lubrication provided and lube the new gear, making sure you get the grease in between all the teeth on the gear and slide back on. Don't use the grease sparingly. Lather the gear up.

#8 take off the bushing the motor housing. The bushing I am referring to is circular in shape and a darker gray. It is the bushing that the bottom of the gear shaft slides through. You take off it by retention the motor housing and hitting the back of it with a hammer driving it out. In the kit find the similar bushing and put it back in by pressing it in finger tight and use a hammer to tap it in the rest of the way.

#9 If the trolley has moved one way or the other, reposition it to its primary position and slide the motor housing back over the shaft, then secure. Plug the 4 pin connector in all the way and give that big black circular cup a good push back on the shaft to make sure it's on.

#10 Put the limit assembly back in.

#11 Replace the small gear and triton shaped keeper.

#12 Replace the cover and take off the vicegrips/c-clamps from the rail if need be. (If you supplanted the whole gear and sprocket assembly, attach the chain or belt.)

#13 Plug in the opener and test. If the door is not travelling far adequate up and down or too far up and down adjust the limits accordingly using a flat blade screw driver. The limits are located the on the left side of the opener. You will see two small circular holes. The hole closest to the door is the down limit. Turing this a half turn at a time towards the door will cause the door to close further. Turning it opposite will cause the door to do the opposite. The hole furthest away from the door is the up limit. Turning it away from the door will cause the door to trip supplementary up and turning it towards the door will cause the opposite. You want the bottom of the door to be even to slightly above the header in the up position. You want a good tight seal at the bottom so want the door to hit the ground, then stop. Adjust the limits accordingly by a half turn each time. Continue until door stops in desired position.

Congratulations you did it!

You'll consideration left over pieces when your done. This is where my instructions differ from the manufacture's. You are supplied with everything to replace the worm gear and all the bushings. I have never had a worm gear or its bushing go bad on me. Ninety Nine Percent of the technicians in my area accomplish the gear change as stated above. I have ran into one or two that accomplish the whole task. I have found that most the do it yourselfers end up doing more harm than good when trying to use everything supplied. The choice is up to you. My advice is save the extra parts in case you ever need them again. I extremely doubt you ever will.

I hope you have new knowledge about Best Teeth. Where you can put to easy use in your daily life. And just remember, your reaction is passed about Best Teeth.